{"id":10503,"date":"2023-10-29T23:29:19","date_gmt":"2023-10-29T23:29:19","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/andrewdoran.uk\/blog\/?p=10503"},"modified":"2023-10-29T23:29:26","modified_gmt":"2023-10-29T23:29:26","slug":"weeknotes-243-berlin","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/andrewdoran.uk\/blog\/2023\/10\/29\/weeknotes-243-berlin\/","title":{"rendered":"Weeknotes #243 \u2014 Berlin"},"content":{"rendered":"
This week\u2019s umlaut forecast: SIGNIFICANT.<\/p>\n
\"Berlin\u2019s

Berlin\u2019s Fernsehturm (TV Tower), seemingly visible from everywhere in the centre of the city.<\/p><\/div>\n

A really busy week, which culminated in a trip to Berlin with my two brothers and my dad as our gift to him in celebration of his 70th birthday. After last year\u2019s big family holiday<\/a>, we figured that the best present would be to spend some more quality time together. It was wonderful, but I am exhausted.<\/p>\n

Friday\u2019s alarm went off just after 5am as I had a taxi picking me up an hour later. The week had been hectic, and I was already worn out before we got going. We\u2019d collaborated on our schedule using a shared Apple Note; all that we had planned for the first day was dinner in the evening. It was great to land at the lounge and get some breakfast.<\/p>\n

\"An

An early morning birthday toast at Heathrow<\/p><\/div>\n

Berlin has so much to offer. It\u2019s a city with an incredible history<\/a>, but like London it blends this with modern architecture. Our hotel<\/a> was situated next to the sparkling glass-clad Central Station, a short hop from the Bundeskanzleramt<\/a><\/em> (German Chancellery) and Reichstag<\/a> buildings. The accommodation was great \u2014 a very modern, classy, business-focused building with a decent bar and an excellent buffet.<\/p>\n

After checking ourselves in, we asked the front desk for a recommendation for somewhere to grab a beer and a light bite to eat. They pointed us towards Lindenbr\u00e4u<\/a> in Potsdamer Platz<\/a>. It\u2019s a strange place to go for beer; the vibe was more \u2018Saturday afternoon shopping experience\u2019 than \u2018traditional German bierkeller\u2019, but we were too tired to start traipsing around the city. It was here that we met J\u00fcrgen, our dad\u2019s doppelg\u00e4nger. Over the course of several beers we established that both men were the same age, both semi-retired and working in order to keep themselves active and busy. J\u00fcrgen kept everyone\u2019s glasses full and made us feel right at home.<\/p>\n

\"Doppelg\u00e4ngers\"

Doppelg\u00e4ngers<\/p><\/div>\n

In the evening we took a taxi across to Zur Letzten Instanz<\/a>, \u2018Berlin\u2019s oldest restaurant\u2019, which recently celebrated its 400th birthday. The food was excellent. The meat-eaters tucked into their first taste of traditional pork knuckle and I sampled the mashed potato, eggs and mustard.<\/p>\n

\"Pork

Pork knuckle, mashed potato, eggs and mustard.<\/p><\/div>\n

The next morning we were up bright and early to take advantage of the hotel\u2019s excellent buffet before heading out to meet our guide for a World War 2-themed walking tour. It was a quick couple of train stops to Hackescher Markt, the meeting place for Original Berlin Walks<\/a>. James, our tour guide, was excellent. Half of the tour was close to the meeting point and the other was over towards the central government buildings.<\/p>\n

We started at the Alter J\u00fcdischer Friedhof<\/a> (Old Jewish Cemetery). James explained that back in the 1700s, Jews were invited to come and live in Berlin. This cemetery was established around this time. Outside the cemetery there is a haunting sculpture called Jewish Victims of Fascism<\/a><\/em> by Will Lammert.<\/p>\n

\"Jewish

Jewish Victims of Fascism by Will Lammert<\/p><\/div>\n

Our next stop was The Missing House<\/a><\/em>, the site of a residence that was bombed during World War 2. Artist Christian Boltanski installed plaques on the houses either side of the gap to show who lived there at the time of the bombing.<\/p>\n

\"The

The Missing House<\/p><\/div>\n

As we walked, we noticed the \u2018stumbling stones<\/a>\u2019 that are placed in the pavement. This is a project of remembrance for victims of the Nazi extermination or persecution. The stones are placed at the last place that they lived or worked before they were taken. Each one is tiny story. Given how difficult it is to get one\u2019s head around the magnitude of the violence and atrocities, I love how this project gives a slice of access into individual narratives.<\/p>\n

\"Stumbling

Stumbling stones<\/p><\/div>\n

A nearby park is home to a metal sculpture called The Deserted Room<\/a><\/em>. It depicts a fragment of the scene of a room that has been deserted by its occupants who have been forcibly taken away. Our guide observed how the sculpture isn\u2019t very prescriptive in terms of what it represents and how you should feel when you look at it; there is lots of room for interpretation and projection.<\/p>\n

\"The

The Deserted Room<\/p><\/div>\n

Our next stop was the New Synagogue<\/a>, a surprisingly ostentatious building in central Berlin. Our guide relayed how the building was saved from arsonists during the November Pogrom on 9 November 1938 by Otto Bellgardt, a local police officer who was on duty that night. He ran into the building clutching some random papers from his desk which he claimed were orders to preserve it as a historical landmark, and to avoid the fire spreading to the post office a few buildings away. The vandals didn\u2019t bother to read the documents and left, allowing the fire to be put out. Nobody understands why he did this.<\/p>\n

\"New

New Synagogue, Berlin<\/p><\/div>\n

We walked by the Berlin Anhalter Bahnhof<\/a>, the now ruined remains of a railway station that was used for thousands of deportations.<\/p>\n

\"The

The ruined remains of the Berlin Anhalter Bahnhof<\/p><\/div>\n

A few minutes walk brought us to Wilhelmstrasse, site of a striking memorial to Georg Elser<\/a>. Elser had tried to assassinate Hitler in Munich in 1939 by putting a bomb under a stage where he was due to speak. Unfortunately, the weather was poor so Hitler decided to leave the venue early. His lucky escape was interpreted by Hitler as a sign that he was destined to continue towards his goals. Elser was kept alive until 1945 in anticipation of using him for propaganda in the form of a show trial. He was murdered four weeks before the end of the war in Europe.<\/p>\n

\"Memorial

Memorial to Georg Elser on Wilhelmstrasse<\/p><\/div>\n

We next came to the site of Hitler\u2019s bunker<\/a>. Fittingly, no traces of the bunker remain and it is now an unremarkable car park.<\/p>\n

\"Site

Site of the F\u00fchrerbunker<\/p><\/div>\n

Our next stop was the massive Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe<\/a>. It\u2019s another artistic work that is not prescriptive \u2014 the 2,711 concrete blocks that make up the site are open to interpretation, in both their form and number. At the edges of the installation the blocks are relatively short; as you move towards the center of the matrix, along the uneven paths, they begin to tower over you. Towards the Tiergarten<\/a> some trees appear, blending the memorial with its surroundings. It\u2019s a moving and affecting place.<\/p>\n

\"At

At the edge of the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Towards

Towards the centre of the At the edge of the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe<\/p><\/div>\n

Later in the day, once our tour had finished, we came back to visit the Information Centre located under the memorial. It is the opposite of the sculpture in that it contains lots of information about the Holocaust, with photographs, letters and other exhibits from the period. In \u2018The Room of Names\u2019, every minute the name of a victim is shown on the walls as an audio biography is read out. With the amount of information currently held by the Centre, cycling through the names takes a staggering six years, seven months and 27 days.<\/p>\n

We had a couple of stops left on our tour. Wandering past the Brandenburg Gate<\/a>, crossing over a line of stones in the road that denoted the previous location of the Berlin Wall<\/a>, we found ourselves in front of the Soviet War Memorial. Two T-34 tanks are located in front of the memorial, one on each side; apparently they are meant to be the first two Soviet tanks to enter Berlin in 1945. The site is located in what was the British sector of the city, but Soviet guards were allowed to stand watch on the site. The city is such a mishmash influences, something we found over and over again on our visit.<\/p>\n

\"The

The Soviet War Memorial, Tiergarten<\/p><\/div>\n

Our last stop was the Reichstag building<\/a>, site of the German parliament. The building played a pivotal role in the Nazi rise to power, with a fire in the building in 1933 being blamed on Communists, pushing the President to give Hitler additional powers as a result. Our guide showed us a fascinating photo<\/a> of a soldier raising the Soviet flag on the roof of the building in 1945. The photo was used as propaganda. However, if you look closely you will see that the person helping the soldier to raise the flag is wearing two watches, implying that he had stolen from someone \u2014 presumably a victim of the fighting. The photo was later edited to remove one of the watches.<\/p>\n

\"Raising

Raising a Flag over the Reichstag by Yevgeny Khaldei, 2 May 1945<\/p><\/div>\n

Today, the Reichstag has a transparent glass roof, allowing visitors to see into the work of the parliament below. Our guide said that it was a deliberate design decision, offering transparency in stark contrast to the the way that the Nazi regime operated. It\u2019s a beautiful building with a fascinating history.<\/p>\n

\"The

The Reichstag building<\/p><\/div>\n

Next to the Reichstag is another memorial, one which we would have missed if it hadn\u2019t been pointed out to us. Jagged slabs of metal stick out from the floor, each one representing a member of the Reichstag who was murdered between 1933 and 1945<\/a>.<\/p>\n

\"Memorial

Memorial to the Murdered Members of the Reichstag<\/p><\/div>\n

It was an incredible four hours. So good, in fact, that we decided to book ourselves on another of the company\u2019s walking tours<\/a> the next day, this time to the Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp<\/a> Memorial.<\/p>\n

This trip started an hour earlier as it involved a 45 minute train ride out of Berlin to the town of Oranienburg<\/a>. Gregor was our guide for the day, a Berliner by birth who was still living in the city. Our tour party had almost twice as many people as the previous one, with people from India, Taiwan, South Korea, the USA, Columbia, Guatemala and many other countries joining us for the trip.<\/p>\n

Oranienburg seemed to be an unremarkable suburban town. We walked a mile or so from the station, along a main road and through residential streets before stopping in a cul-de-sac. Here, past the end of the row of houses, was the entrance to the former concentration camp site. It was startling in its plainness.<\/p>\n

\"Hans-Von-Dohnanyi-Stra\u00dfe,

Hans-Von-Dohnanyi-Stra\u00dfe, Oranienburg. The entrance to the former Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp can be seen at the end of the street.<\/p><\/div>\n

Our guide explained how the camp served as a design experiment and training centre for SS officers. The layout of the camp was such that all of the barracks \u2018faced\u2019 the central tower, known as \u2018Tower A\u2019, which was mounted with a machine gun. This meant that the prisoners would feel as though they were being watched at all times.<\/p>\n

\"Looking

Looking at a map of the camp<\/p><\/div>\n

Walking towards the main entrance to the camp we saw that the adjacent former SS camp is now used for the Brandenburg University of Applied Police Sciences<\/a>. A sign that faced the fence separating the two locations explained why:<\/p>\n

The Brandenburg University of Applied Police Sciences (www.fhpolbb.de) has been located here on the grounds of the former SS camp adjacent to Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp Memorial since 2006. The prime educational objective is commitment to the primary principle of the Basic Law: Human dignity is inviolable. As part of their studies students learn about the history of what happened here and the crimes committed by the police under the Nazi regime.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

\"The

The Brandenburg University of Applied Police Sciences<\/p><\/div>\n

The site itself was overwhelming in its scale, both physically and in terms of the dreadful things that happened there. We had a look at the main entrance tower and saw how the SS would have had a full view of the camp, at least initially until it was later extended. Inmates would be lined up in front of the tower to be counted twice a day, with the counts sometimes lasting for hours. A semicircle of rugged terrain was used by prisoners to test shoes for many hours at a time.<\/p>\n

\"View

View from the tower<\/p><\/div>\n

Beneath the tower is a gate with the phrase arbeit macht frei<\/a><\/em> (\u2018work sets you free\u2019) which is found in many Nazi concentration camps.<\/p>\n

\"The

The entrance gate to the camp<\/p><\/div>\n

We learned about the \u2019neutral zone\u2019, a perimeter area of the camp upon which, if you were found there, you could be shot without warning.<\/p>\n

\"The

The \u2018neutral zone\u2019<\/p><\/div>\n

Much of the camp was destroyed by the Soviet Union after the fall of Berlin, but the outline of the buildings remain. The buildings that are still standing, or have been reconstructed, serve as museum pieces with various artefacts and narratives on display.<\/p>\n

\"Site

Site of the former prison within the camp \u2014 a prison within a prison<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Site

Site of one of the barracks<\/p><\/div>\n

The Soviets repurposed the site, adding a gigantic concrete obelisk and statue in memorial to the victims of the Nazis. The site was used for celebrations of the German Democratic Republic (GDR) during Soviet rule.<\/p>\n

\"Soviet

Soviet obelisk and statue inside Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp<\/p><\/div>\n

Our tour finished with a visit to \u2018Station Z\u2019, named as a sick joke by the Nazis as the final place that the prisoners would go to after they began their time at the camp by entering through Tower A. The area consisted of an execution trench as well as the remains of buildings that were used to systematically execute and burn thousands of people. Despite looking at it in person, it was so difficult to comprehend and feel what had happened here. Our guide made the point that without visitors who are willing to see the site, to learn and to remember, it is just a pile of bricks and statues. The act of us taking the time to go there was important.<\/p>\n

Our tour lasted six hours. Having a well-informed guide was excellent, but there was still so much that we didn\u2019t see and didn\u2019t read as we were under a little bit of time pressure to get back for our train.<\/p>\n

It was a very heavy day. After getting back to the city, we needed some light relief, so we made our way to a riverside bar to talk and unwind.<\/p>\n

Berlin is an incredible place. There is modernity, history and complexity at every turn.<\/p>\n

\"Our

Our favourite building, right next to our hotel and the main train station. A beautiful glass cube with restaurants and cafes at the base.<\/p><\/div>\n

Through the rest of the trip we found ourselves singing in the amusingly bizarre Monster Ronson\u2019s Ichiban Karaoke Bar<\/a>…<\/p>\n

\"To

To the extreme…<\/p><\/div>\n

…gazing out across Berlin from the roof of the Futurium<\/a>…<\/p>\n

\"On

On top of the Futurium. The glass dome of the Reichstag building is right behind me.<\/p><\/div>\n

…spotting the route of where the Berlin Wall used to be…<\/p>\n

\"The

The site of the Berlin Wall is marked by cobblestones across the city<\/p><\/div>\n

…and visiting a surviving section of the Wall which had been turned into an open air art gallery.<\/p>\n

\"Section

Section of the Berlin Wall painted with artwork from Pink Floyd\u2019s The Wall<\/p><\/div>\n

I also enjoyed a 10km run with one of my brothers on the last morning of our trip.<\/p>\n

In our four days know that we only scratched the surface of all of the things that the city offers. I\u2019d love to go back.<\/p>\n

\"The

The Reichstag at sunset<\/p><\/div>\n

Aside from the trip, this was a week in which I:<\/p>\n